Looks like we’re completely out of the “colorful summer” and what used to be the color blocking trend. Forget about bold shades. The palette is black, white, grey and some pastels. Minimalism, futurism and masculine inspired cuts and volumes or extremely feminine, tender and romantic looks in light fabrics, but in a more static rather than femme fatale look. Oversize, loose and easy. Plastic, stripes, silk and shades of red and burdeos.
There’s still a lot of gothic presence which I’m sure will last at least few seasons more, but in general we have a very polished, pure and clean woman for next Spring Summer 2013.
Check out some of my top looks from favorite designers.
Deconstruction and perfect angles from Wang this season. Perfect collection.
Silk, leather, sheer and organza in military green, blue, brown and white. A grungy, masculine and very wearable collection. Love it.
…and the modern geisha.
This time Formichetti and Sébastien Peigné definitely went for a more wearable collection inspired by 90’s shapes and Asia.
As far as I remember no one ever has mixed ruffles with cutting edge minimalism that well. And that’s exactly what Nicolas Ghesquiére did this season. As always in Balenciaga’s collections – it’s never not what it looks like.
I’ve always admired Elbaz’s ability to create this extremely stylish, yet dark and twisted look in his collections. Great collection, once again.
Leather, asymmetric collection with lots of layers and soft and pastel colors.
MAISON MARTIN MARGIELA
MMM always comes up with something absolutely new. We know the house is undoubtedly one of the main trend setters of nowadays fashion and they once again prove it combining soft elegance in a very minimal way. Again we see shades of white, grey, blue and of course black.
A very delicate and ladylike collection.
A gothic, witchy and 70’s feel from Slimane at his debut for Saint Laurent.
The big news of the season with Raf Simon’s debuting collection for Dior (not forgetting Slimane for YSL here). Simons also goes for a clean and structured look, representing a strong but playful woman. Silk is also on the menu here in some pastel and shiny skirts and dresses combined with suits.
Pugh has mixed aggressive with romantic at the same time here, in an outstanding I may say collection.
DOLCE & GABBANA
Back to Sicily. Corsets, stripes, vase, dishes and souvenir prints and total but sexy kitsch.
Tisci let the light in with a romantic collection in light fabrics such as organza and lots of sheer and ruffles compared to his previous darker collections.
Bill Gaytten playing with volumes in a collection I personally loved. Absolutely apart from Galliano’s signature, but maybe it’s for good.
Celine. One of my favorite brands. Always polished, perfect and stylish in a very special and unique way.
It’s all about bees in Sarah Burton’s head this season. Veils, honeycombs and honey color pallet in a very sexy and feminine silhouettes.
60-ish square positivism from Jacobs for LV